The Warforge Miniature Modelling and Conversion


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Dec
2009
294:27
pm

Buy, Sell, or Trade!

Okay! I've got some stuff I need, and some stuff I don't, so let's do this.

First off, the Things I Have:

Tyranid Bitz - Click for bigger pictures

Most of these are arms, heads, and other assorted limbs. I have very few bodies. All of them are plastic, but some have been sprayed with an old can of GW's Bonewhite spray. I am not a nid player, so I simply tried to sort the bitz into general piles based on size.

nidbitz1 nidbitz2 nidbitz3

Figure someone might be interested in these, what with the new nids coming out and a lot of them being big gribblies that could benefit from extra limbs. I'm sure whatever doesn't go will end up on some looted tyranid monstrosity shortly ( :D ), but it's just more than I could possibly need for an army I don't play.

Secondly, we have Salamander Bitz which I no longer need as I'm switching them over to Legion of the Damned.

bitzforsale001

I inherited some of the loose bitz from a friend of mine, and when I tried to strip paint off of them, I discovered that some of them were a white resin instead of Forgeworld's regular. I can only assume he did some of his own casting and made copies of things. For what it's worth, they're pretty good casts, though the rhino doors don't have much detail on the 'interior', i.e. the side of the door that faces inwards that nobody ever sees. If anyone finds these objectionable, feel free not to be interested in them.

There's a few custom-sculpted bitz in the piles, as you'll see above.

The Vulkan He'Stan conversion (pictured at the top of the series) does have a head that has been hollowed out and accepts LEDs. The head is currently removed; I can conceivably put the LED head back on without too much difficulty. I can also change the LED color to green, red, or yellow. I'm able to wire the whole thing up to a battery mounted in a base, but that'll require a bit more work.

The razorback is lit, as the pictures show, and the battery is easily changed in a hatch at the bottom of the vehicle. The side doors currently on the thing are white resin, but they are magnetized on and can be easily removed (I intended to set it up so it could receive sponsons). The front hatch is also white resin, and is securely mounted there.

Now, for Bitz I am Looking For:

bitzwanted001

I'd prefer to trade for these if possible, but if not I'm willing to buy as long as you're being reasonable about valuation.

Think that's all for now! Anyone who is interested in any of the above can feel free to contact me.

EDIT: An additional find for my Salamanders For Sale - A converted Chaplain Xavier.

xavier

This guy's been converted up to work under Chaplain Cassius's rules in the current Space Marine codex.

Edit again! Some Space Wolves that I'd like to trade or sell.

spacewolf

More if I find it!

Dec
2009
2912:29
am

Berserk? Don’t mind if I do!

So for the past few days I've been tinkering with the Berserker a bit more, and I think I've reached the point where I'm happy introducing the model to The Warp (also known as a jar of stripping solvents). I learned a lot from experimenting with it, though!

It's currently a bit glossy because I was working on getting it prepped for some oil paints. I did try and give it a splash of color for comparison's sake, but I don't think it did a lot. I'm not entirely unhappy with the look, but I have come to realize that what I'm doing to this model is just a little too weird. At the outset, I wanted a white, ceramic looking armor, but I also wanted some rusty weathering. While the two can coexist on the same model, I think it's only possible if the weathering's done to a much lesser degree. As-is it's sitting in a weird niche between clean and weathered, and I think that's the problem with why I'm not too enthusiastic about it. I could certainly drive the white down by weathering the hell out of it, but then I'll have one warjack that looks like absolute hell, and I don't plan on doing all my warjacks up similarly since I like to think Khador has at least a bit more pride in their warmachines than an ork might.

So, with that said, off to the stripper it goes. I will give it another go once I get it cleaned up - I'm told that sponge-weathering is much more effective for limited amounts of chipped paint and the likes, so I'll experiment a bit with that method in the mean time!

Dec
2009
2912:10
am

Ammo, uh, flamenco?

Not content with just a glyph on the top of the ammo canister, I set about applying a smaller one to cover up the visible 'USA' mark on the side.

ammocan015 ammocan016

With that taken care of, I felt like I had to do something to the opposite side to balance it out, so after thinking a little bit, I decided to go ahead and try something dumb. I sprayed a decent helping of the red paint I had onto a cardboard sheet and smeared my hand right in there and then smeared it down the other side of the canister to give it that authentic 'stole from da 'umiez' look.

ammocan020

I think this canister's done. I bought three more after finding out how awesomely they hold the sabol foam I have, so hopefully I'll be able to fit my entire ork army into these cans. When I get the others I will, undoubtedly, be making similar 'modifications'. :) For now, this one's done, though.

Of course, you can't get your hands smeared in 'blood' without pausing to reflect on the awful reality of your situation:

ammocan021 ammocan022

Stuff is hard as hell to get off!

Dec
2009
281:21
am

Ammo Can-Can

One of the things I got this christmas was a neat military surplus item - an ammo canister.

ammocan002

The first thing I noticed was that the canister's dimensions just so happened to be just about exactly the same as Sabol's army transport foam.

ammocan003

It fits perfectly width-wise, with a little bit of extra room at the ends that I might be able to cram a rulebook/dice/templates down. What that meant as far as I was concerned is that I had a new, fancy army transport on my hands that needed a wee bit of customization!

So, off to the drawing boards we go. A bit of heavy stock paper and some cutting, and we have a nice aquila template that I can use as a stencil for spray-painting.

I ripped out papers from the closest thing handy to help act as a mask for the stencil I cut out. What else is the Macragge book good for now, anyway? :D In some areas I used magnets to help hold the stencil down tight against the surface of the metal. If I'd made my stencil out of something like contact or film paper, it wouldn't have been necessary to do that part, but since mine was basically just thicker paper it would bulge up in areas no matter how hard I tried. The magnets helped me keep the stencil snug to the lid.

With the lid masked off, I grabbed a spray can of white paint intended for aircraft out of my garage and gave the top of the canister two good coats of white.

ammocan009

The results were pretty satisfactory. With the lid Imperial'd up, I thought it'd be appropriate to 'loot' it by slapping a big red ork glyph essentially overtop. After a wee bit more cutting, I had myself a nice glyph mask.

ammocan012

I had to give it a couple coats of red spray paint to get it to cover properly, since painting bright red over dark green is a bit of a challenge. Fortunately, by the end of it I had a nice, bright red color. I didn't think it stood out enough, though, so I grabbed some cheap black paint and a rough brush and set about outlining it. When all was said and done, I had myself a nice lid for the ammo canister that clearly stated my allegiance.

ammocan001 ammocan014

I'll probably add a couple more glyphs to the sides of the thing before I'm done messing around with it - I only just noticed one of the stencils already on it reads 'USA', which simply won't do in the 41st millenium!

Dec
2009
254:42
pm

Green (and rumbly) Christmas

So, the mysterious Mr. X has outdone himself.

Not content to have provided me with some of the nicest-painted boyz in my collection, he volunteered a couple months ago to help me with painting my converted warbikes. As I've had virtually no time for the hobby at all this past semester, I jumped at the chance to get a bit of help with the greenskins, and X did not dissapoint at all.

Yesterday evening I was informed that a package had arrived...

mysterybox

And when I cracked open the box this morning, what should come tumbling out (not literally, of course!) but my dozen greenskin bikers and their cherry rides!

I quickly set about assembling the riders and bikers and got the bases I'd painted for them out. After a bit of gluing, swearing, and pinning, I was able to get them all securely assembled into the impressive squad you see below.

bikerpaint001 bikerpaint002 bikerpaint003

Needless to say, X has done a fantastic job bringing these models to life. I've snapped a dozen shots of individual bikes to show off some of the painting.

Even up as close as the shots above are, they still look awesome, and I'm exceedingly proud to have these gitz in my possession. I have a feeling I'll be building something to pay back the favor! :D

Thanks X, and happy holidays to everyone!

Dec
2009
251:53
pm

How fast iz we goin’ now?

In a continuation of my recent hairspray-powered painting endeavors, I wanted to try the method out on something larger and broader than a miniature. As I was previously a bit unhappy with how bland my tracked wartrukk looked, I set about experimenting on it's half-painted chassis. I hit the trukk with a coat of gloss varnish, then hairspray, and then thinned down Vallejo Blood Red into an airbrush and covered most of the vehicle.

trukkairbrush

With that done, I started to chip away at the paint a bit. I think I like it in it's current shape more than it's previous one, at least.

I think it worked a lot better on the back end than the front, though I couldn't honestly tell you why. In any case, now that it's somewhat weathered it'll be a good base to work from. I'm thinking if I grab some of the red oil paints I have, I can get some good variations in the hues and sharpen the details up a bit. I'll also work on cleaning up and painting the treads and other requisite details.

Dec
2009
2211:08
pm

On the fence

I mucked about with this a bit more, and I'm still unsure how I feel about it.

The weird thing is, these pictures make it look a little better than I think it looks to the eye, which is the reverse of the way macro photography usually works. I think it's just a bit overwhelming to look at and try to piece together in person.

I feel like the concept's there, but the execution is lacking. I tried to clean up the pistons and weapons a tiny bit with some boltgun metal and mithril silver, followed by some thin black washes all over the model. I am not sure if I want to keep working on it in it's current state, or chuck it into the paint-strippin' pot for a rematch with different weathering methods. I think part of the problem is my chosen scheme - I really wanted to pull of something like this Spriggan, which I idolize, but I went too far with the hairspray-chipping and made a mess of things.

What do you guys think? Press on and keep trying to clean the thing up, or toss it to the proverbial lions and strip it for another go?

Dec
2009
221:48
pm

Painting? That’s madness!

Okay, so I decided to go ahead and start messing around with my Berserker's paint. You may or may not like what you're about to see, it's mostly me experimenting with things.

I've been trying to refine the hairspray technique over the past few days, and I figured I might as well give it a go on a full model instead of just test pieces. At worst, I can just chuck the model into a jar and scrub it clean and give it another go.

So, with that in mind, I went about setting up my undercoat of rust and metal. I started by hitting the model with a spray of Krylon Rust-color Primer, and let that sit for a little bit. Then I grabbed my airbrush and Privateer Press's P3 paint color Thornwood Green and hit the model with it in localized areas. Thornwood Green is a very desaturated, dark color that I thought looked like a pretty good contrast to the rust color. I sprayed it focusing mostly around the areas that I knew would be a dark iron or metal - the boiler, the joints, pistons, and the weapons. The goal behind this was to get a bit of variance in the undercoat, so any paint that was uncovered wouldn't all be the same shade of rust orange.

At this step, I'm fairly happy with the way the thing looks.

Now, here's where the hairspray method comes in. Just to reiterate what I've posted in the past, the goal of the hairspray method is to create a sort of masking layer that keeps any paint applied over it from sticking completely to the model. It can then be removed with a brush and water.

I hit the model up with a coat of Testor's Glosscote to help protect this rusty undercoat from the steps to come. Then, once that dried, I gave the model a good spray from head to toe with hairspray, and let THAT dry.

Once that was done, it was time to apply the base armor color. I wanted my warjacks to be a white color, like a sort of ceramic, so I thinned down some skull white and ran it through the airbrush, coating the model head to toe. I didn't worry too much above the coverage on areas like the boiler or weapons, or the pistons, as I know those are not going to be white by the time the model's done.

So far so good.I let that dry for about ten minutes while I cleaned out my airbrush.

Now, here's the tricky part. Using a stiff brush and some water, you can stipple the coat that we just airbrushed on. The water on the brush will dissolve the hairspray beneath the paint, and cause the paint to lift and come away as you attack it with the brush. By doing this, I can remove sections of the white paint and reveal the darker coat I first applied.

In theory, it's a really nice and easy way to weather things. In practice, it's... well, it's easy to go overboard, as you'll see below.

A problem I encountered as I did this was that the white paint I was attacking with the brush would pool in the recesses of the model, meaning it got washed into the joints in the pistons and what have you. I'm not too particularly worried about that, as I am pretty sure that a bit more time with the brush and some water can get that cleaned up - I'm just taking a break from it for now, as I'm tired of working on it.

I think the model is also suffering from a bit of a lack of definition. I'm thinking after I work at cleaning the metal areas up (pistons, axes, etc) some more, I'll give the whole thing a thin black wash before continuing, to try and bring the edges back out. Any areas I overdid with the weathering can, of course, be touched up with a brush by hand and some white paint.

Try and withhold judgment on the weathering until I have a bit more time to clean it up. I know it looks a bit extreme, but I still think I can make it work. If not, it's not a huge loss - a quick bath in simple green'll clean it right up for another try or a different painting method.

Dec
2009
213:30
pm

Armor(mis)cast

So, I'm dissapointed.

I recently purchased one of Armorcast's "Fuel Air Missiles" in the hopes that I could use it as the basis for an Ork Pulsa Rokkit for Apocalypse. It seemed pretty well suited for it from the picture - it's got a mean face that is, according to their web site, "scribed on the missile body for your painting pleasure", and it's just generally a big, chunky, ramshackle looking piece of hardware that is perfectly suited to be an Orky weapon.

Unfortunately, the reality of the product is vastly, vastly different than their advertisement. Here's some pictures of the model taken pretty much immediately out of the package, without any tinkering.

armormiscast001

At first blush, it looks okay. The launching stand seems decent enough, and the detail on those parts is at least clean, although there's some pretty obvious flashing that needs to be removed. However, close examination very quickly reveals that the rocket itself is in absolutely miserable shape.

armormiscast006

I strongly recommend clicking on the images to view them at full size, so you can get an idea of my issues with the product.

The 'scribed on' detail is nonexistent, outside of one poorly cast eye-lump on one side of the rocket. The wiring and mechanical bits on the back are extremely dissapointing, as it's one of the bits Armorcast did not really display in their preview pictures at all - for reasons which are now becoming apparent.

I like to consider myself a reasonably competent modeller. I can patch holes, I can fix mold lines, I can clean resin up. But the state this rocket is in is simply unreasonable - what wires aren't miscast are covered in flashing 2-3 millimeters thick and pitted with air bubble holes. I bought this product to use as the base for a conversion - basically, to save myself the effort of making the underlying structure - but looking at it now, it'd take more time and effort for me to clean, fix, and repair what they sold me, rather than making my own from scratch. The quality of the cast is what I would consider barely passable for use as terrain, and that's only if you're burying it under ballast and giving it a quick drybrush; there's certainly no "painting pleasure" to be had here.

I had, in past, bought some Armorcast terrain features that shared a number of the flaws I see present on this piece. In those instances, I was willing to give Armorcast the benefit of the doubt, simply because it was a terrain feature (specifically, a barricade) and I figured I probably just got a fluke. However, I'm sure now that this isn't the case - I'm positive that the general quality control at Armorcast is asleep at the wheel.

I can't, in good conscience, recommend anyone else buy these things because I know for a fact that the casts they're going to be putting out aren't going to get any better. How? Well, simply put, there's pieces of the mold stuck in the tight crevasses of the model I got, meaning they're tearing the mold apart as they're using it. This will manifest on models that are cast later as weird, misshapen resin blobs on the models they make. This isn't even a chance thing - there's a whole thread on the Armorcast forums discussing how to remove bits of their molds that are stuck to the model!

Shame on you, Armorcast. The guys at D6 Hobbies put out superior casts with a garage set-up, and you run a whole business around the production of these shoddy copies.

Dec
2009
2011:44
pm

Warjack on the run

So I tinkered a bit more with the Berserker and I'm reasonably happy with it's pose now.

Got a good bit of forward movement behind him. Now I'm hoping to do a bit of extra cleanup and detailing - things like adding Khadoran iconography on bare plates to try and liven things up a bit. Fortunately, the Khador symbol is very simple to cut out of styrene, so I don't imagine I'll lose too much sleep over it.

As far as painting goes, I've decided I don't want to to the common red Khador theme. I'm going for a cream/white color as my primary, instead - sort've a Khadoran Navy theme, if you will. This is why I've been testing the weathering effects in white on a dreadnought torso the past few days to try and get a handle on things. Hopefully I'll be able to do some decent weathering without going overboard!

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