The Warforge Miniature Modelling and Conversion


Feb
2010
143:30
pm

Toothpaste, round two!

So I figured I'd keep experimenting a bit on the tank. Into the Warp it went, to stew in Simple Green for the better part of a week while I occupied myself at school. When I fished it out and scrubbed it down, I actually managed to get most of the paint off right down to the underlying styrene:

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Then I set about hitting it with my ol' Krylon Rust Primer again, and airbrushed some brighter orange colors overtop just to try and make the rust brighter. After that, I started applying the toothpaste again, in the hopes that I might be a bit more conservative with it this time.

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Then came an airbrushed coat of grey overtop - again, a lighter color than the final coal black I picture the tank being at the end, largely because I hope to use some black washes on the entirety of the thing to make the armor plates stand out more.

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Then came the pivotal moment - about half an hour after the last spray, I stuck the tank under the sink again. You don't want to work too slowly when you're using toothpaste, because if you leave it on there long enough it'll turn rock-hard and won't rinse off. This time, I had a much stranger experience with rinsing the mask off - in some places, the water actually managed to get underneath the grey paint after I'd rinsed the toothpaste off, and it lifted larger patches of the paint off than I actually masked. However, it did so in a very organic manner, leaving me with an irregular looking, patchy paint and rust job that I actually sort've like.

I think this looks a lot less like camo than my first go around at this method, and I think it'll be workable in the long run. I'm going to probably stipple the rust areas with a very bright color like blazing orange to give them some irregular coloring, and then I'll set about adding the actual colors onto the plates of the tank that will be getting 'em. After that, a black wash should help make the whole thing a bit more Goffy.

Feb
2010
72:49
am

Dental hygene not just for teeth

So, this was something I'd heard about and felt like trying.

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The idea's straightforward enough - you use toothpaste as a mask for airbrushing. As you'll notice, and as I've since come to determine, I've applied the stuff like a bit of a moron - I should have kept it to the edges of plates and the likes, but I really didn't know what I was doing. Anyway, you simply squirt a bit of toothpaste out onto a palette and grab a sponge like blister foam and just dab it around a bit. Then you airbrush right over it. Which is what I did!

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I decided to go for a Goff Scheme that I imagine will be a fair bit black, but I made the tank a bit more on the grey end of things because I figure I'll end up using some Black Wash on the armor later on in the process to make the plates stand out a bit better... which will bring the grey shades right back down to a dark, Goff-y color.

Anyway, once the airbrushed paint has a chance to dry a little bit, removing the toothpaste is incredibly simple - you just hold the tank under a faucet, and off it comes in about a minute, no scrubbing required. You'll notice from my final results that the masking looks a bit more like... well, some sort of retarded camo scheme, rather than rust, largely due to my irresponsible toothpaste placement. Also, I didn't pick up on the fact that the toothpaste would mask off some areas almost transparently - a very thin layer of the stuff's all that's needed, and I didn't realize just how effective it'd end up being.

It's interesting, for sure, and most of all it seems to do it's own sort've blacklining around the 'rust' areas. I'm hoping at this point I'll be able to cut the effect down a bit by painting some plates in red colors and adding things like checkmarks.

Dec
2009
1812:22
pm

Experiment: Hairspray Technique, Round 2

Took another crack at the hairspray technique, and had a bit more success this time. I was going to try salt on one half of the torso, but I couldn't find anything with small enough granules to satisfy; maybe some of my ballast/basing sand will work in future, I didn't think of it at the time.

This time, I started with a reddish base color, courtesy of Krylon Rust-colored Primer. I was hoping that the primer would adhere a bit better to the model and resist coming off.

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After that dried, I hit it with Testor's Glosscote, a glossy laquer varnish, in the hopes that it'd help keep the orange in place. I let that dry, then applied a coat of hair spray over top, and let that dry too. Then, it was time to break out the airbrush for a white coat of paint overtop. I think this part particularly went better than last time, since I got a much better, more even coverage and it was more opaque.

If nothing else, I'm learning to mix/thin paint for the airbrush better.

Then, after letting that dry for about ten minutes (just long enough to clean the airbrush out) I came back and grabbed a soft brush and started attacking the top coat.

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Now, obviously the results aren't perfect - I didn't try to 'weather' it in very intelligent areas like around the edges as much as I should have, and I clearly removed sections that were too large. Also, it looks like the softer brush didn't actually remove all of the white, as you can see some of it is still obscuring the rust color underneath. I imagine if I got a stiffer bristled brush I'd be able to make sharper looking chipping effects.

Applying a coat of Testor's Dullcote overtop made the paint fix down a bit better and I imagine you could start applying paint overtop as required.

This is a fair improvement over the last attempt.  Torso's heading back into the pot for another cleaning while I think about these results. I'm contemplating stripping the paint off my Trukk and trying to do this to the whole body of the thing.

UPDATE: One last thing. Before the torso went back into the jar, I figured I'd try out some oil paint weathering. This is done pretty simply by getting a tube of oil paint, applying small dots of the paint around the surface of the model, and then getting a soft brush and some mineral spirits and gently rubbing the dots you've brushed on to thin them and spread them out. This took all of about a minute and a half, and looks beat to hell:

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I'm going to practice this a bit more once I get the hairspray method down. I imagine if you use a proper orange oil color, you can get some awesome rust effects going on.

Dec
2009
181:26
am

Experiment: Hairspray Technique

Here's something a little different.

I was recently introduced to some of the painting methods of Mig Jiminez, specifically the 'hairspray technique'. My understanding of the method, after reading that link, is that you basically lay down a base color that serves as the weathering, then apply hairspray over the model, and use an airbrush to lay down another color. Then, with a wet (and presumably firm-bristled) brush, you can stipple and remove the top coat, because it hasn't adhered very strongly to the hairspray layer. Once you're one weathering, I guess you varnish.

So, I thought I'd give this method a go, and see what happened. It looks like it'd be ideal for weathering Khador warjacks if I can get it working.

First, because I don't want to ruin a nice model, we turn to a set of jars that I have collectively termed 'THE WARP'. These jars separately contain acetone, simple green, or other stripping solutions, depending on the model that needs to be stripped. Below, you'll see me with the acetone jar, which is what I throw all my metals into.

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From the depths of this jar, I fished out a metal Furioso Dreadnought's front plate. I spent a little while getting it cleaned off, and then I hit it with my GW Boltgun Metal spray to get a basic coat down to start with.

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My idea here was to get a sort've rusty colored undercoat in place. Then, I'd try the hairspray, and apply a cream-colored paint overtop of that. I grabbed my Devlan Mud and a rusty wash and set about weathering it a bit...

Once that dried, I thought I might try out my airbrush a bit. It's been almost five years since I last used this thing, and I've never been very good at it; mixing the paint consistencies is always hit or miss for me. Using a vermin brown, I thinned it with water and sprayed a bit of the torso down to get a nice, rusted sort of color down on the torso.

Now that I have this in place, it's time for the hairspray. I used the cheapest spray I could find - cost about $2 from the local drug store. If the method works, I'd then be able to brush any paint colors I apply overtop off and reveal this rusty coat.

I left the model to dry for a bit, and once it had, I came back and hit it with a mixture of white and bleached bone with the airbrush.

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It's not a complete cover, as you can see it's not a solid white, but I thought it'd be enough to test the method out, so after I let that dry, I grabbed a brush and started stippling away.

Now, here's where the results I was expecting did not match the results I obtained. I was under the impression the coat of paint I sprayed on after the hairspray would come off relatively easily, but that was definitely not the case; the white coat wasn't coming off at all. I grabbed a stiffer bristled brush that I use for drybrushing, and tried that a bit more forcefully. In one place on the left side of the torso, it worked, and the brown/orange undercoat came through. The rest of the torso, however, didn't go quite as well - instead of reaching the orange coat, I ended up removing paint all the way down to the base metal coat.

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You can see where I ended up removing down past the orange here. I wasn't digging at the model with the brush or anything particularly hard - too gently, and nothing was happening to the white coat, so I did press a bit harder with the brush. It seemed very hard to get to the orange layer without going straight through it.

After this test, I chucked the torso back into the acetone vat for later experiments, since it didn't seem to be going too well.

Some thoughts, comments, and things I might have done wrong:

  • From what I can tell of Mig's method, he uses his airbrush to apply the hairspray. I figured since the stuff was already in an aerosol can, I would spare myself the trouble and spray the hairspray directly on. I honestly can't imagine that's the source of any problems.
  • The white I sprayed over the hairspray certainly did not come off as easily as I was expecting from looking at Mig's article - I thought a wet brush'd just take it off, but you had to kind've work at it, which might be part of why I ended up removing too much.
  • I'm curious if applying a coat of varnish over the orange layer before hitting it with the hairspray would keep me from going all the way down to bare metal while trying to stipple the top coat away.
  • Also, the GW Boltgun Metal spray isn't really a primer. I wonder if that might be why the coats under the hairspray came off too easy.

In any event, the torso'll be stripped bare by tomorrow, and I'll be able to give it another try if I can refine the method a bit. I'd be interested if any of you have comments that might help!