Comments on: Experiment: Hairspray Technique http://www.the-warforge.com/experiments/experiment-hairspray-technique Miniature Modelling and Conversion Sat, 04 Sep 2010 07:38:33 -0500 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.9.2 hourly 1 By: Mike http://www.the-warforge.com/experiments/experiment-hairspray-technique/comment-page-1#comment-34859 Mike Sun, 10 Jan 2010 23:34:48 +0000 http://www.the-warforge.com/?p=1451#comment-34859 http://migjimenez.blogspot.com/2009/11/hairspray-technique-vol1.html If you want to learn weathering techniques you got to check out AFV modelling sites. They tend to do the most extreme stuff compared to most other subjects. http://migjimenez.blogspot.com/2009/11/hairspray-technique-vol1.html

If you want to learn weathering techniques you got to check out AFV modelling sites. They tend to do the most extreme stuff compared to most other subjects.

]]> By: Agatheron http://www.the-warforge.com/experiments/experiment-hairspray-technique/comment-page-1#comment-22945 Agatheron Sat, 19 Dec 2009 13:00:35 +0000 http://www.the-warforge.com/?p=1451#comment-22945 Hey Ein, I took a look and quickly saw what was missing. You missed a step, and probably the most important one... and that's what is making the difference. Once the rusty undercoat is finished you need to put a layer of GW's Purity Seal over the model before doing the hairspray. Specifically Purity Seal is a Lacquer Varnish that the Hairspray won't be able to bond with... Phil Stutcinskas, who developed the technique reveals that the varnish is actually the secret ingredient that makes the hairspray actually work. I'm not sure if you have it in your painting arsenal, but if it isn't, go out and get some. Otherwise, the hairspray bonds to the paint layer below it. Once you're happy with how the paint wear looks, make sure to put another coat of matte varnish over top of the model to then bind the next layers together. I usually airbrush Vallejo's Air Matte varnish on. It's an acrylic varnish, and will bond nicely to everything below it, including whatever hairspray remains on the model. Hey Ein, I took a look and quickly saw what was missing.

You missed a step, and probably the most important one… and that’s what is making the difference. Once the rusty undercoat is finished you need to put a layer of GW’s Purity Seal over the model before doing the hairspray. Specifically Purity Seal is a Lacquer Varnish that the Hairspray won’t be able to bond with… Phil Stutcinskas, who developed the technique reveals that the varnish is actually the secret ingredient that makes the hairspray actually work.

I’m not sure if you have it in your painting arsenal, but if it isn’t, go out and get some. Otherwise, the hairspray bonds to the paint layer below it.

Once you’re happy with how the paint wear looks, make sure to put another coat of matte varnish over top of the model to then bind the next layers together. I usually airbrush Vallejo’s Air Matte varnish on. It’s an acrylic varnish, and will bond nicely to everything below it, including whatever hairspray remains on the model.

]]> By: wokkers http://www.the-warforge.com/experiments/experiment-hairspray-technique/comment-page-1#comment-22231 wokkers Fri, 18 Dec 2009 09:03:55 +0000 http://www.the-warforge.com/?p=1451#comment-22231 sweet - i look forward to seeing the results side-by-side sweet – i look forward to seeing the results side-by-side

]]> By: Ein http://www.the-warforge.com/experiments/experiment-hairspray-technique/comment-page-1#comment-22184 Ein Fri, 18 Dec 2009 07:10:16 +0000 http://www.the-warforge.com/?p=1451#comment-22184 Yeah, I'm definitely trying it again. I've seen the salt method before, but never tried it. I figured the 'brush it with water' directions were straightforward enough, but that didn't seem to pan out. Since posting, I found this link... http://www.network54.com/Forum/527528/message/1176229975/Whitewash Which seems to suggest that the stippling isn't so much what removes the paint as the water itself dissolving the hair spray solution, so maybe I wasn't using enough water, too. I'll have another crack at it tomorrow, and I think I'll try the salt technique on one half of the torso. Yeah, I’m definitely trying it again. I’ve seen the salt method before, but never tried it. I figured the ‘brush it with water’ directions were straightforward enough, but that didn’t seem to pan out.

Since posting, I found this link…

http://www.network54.com/Forum/527528/message/1176229975/Whitewash

Which seems to suggest that the stippling isn’t so much what removes the paint as the water itself dissolving the hair spray solution, so maybe I wasn’t using enough water, too.

I’ll have another crack at it tomorrow, and I think I’ll try the salt technique on one half of the torso.

]]> By: wokkers http://www.the-warforge.com/experiments/experiment-hairspray-technique/comment-page-1#comment-22183 wokkers Fri, 18 Dec 2009 07:08:41 +0000 http://www.the-warforge.com/?p=1451#comment-22183 here is an article on salt weathering - if i find the one using sand and hairsray i will post that too http://www.scalemodelguide.com/guide/painting/salt-weathering/ here is an article on salt weathering – if i find the one using sand and hairsray i will post that too

http://www.scalemodelguide.com/guide/painting/salt-weathering/

]]> By: wokkers http://www.the-warforge.com/experiments/experiment-hairspray-technique/comment-page-1#comment-22181 wokkers Fri, 18 Dec 2009 07:03:12 +0000 http://www.the-warforge.com/?p=1451#comment-22181 you should try adding patches of sand using the hairsrpay as the bonding agent. once the top coat goes over these it leaves a nice weathered effect, because as the sand is removed it leaves more natural looking scratches in the top coat. another method involves painting a salt-heavy water solution on in patches before the topcoat. this dries into salt crystals and again is easily removed after the top coat goes on. have another go - the results are worth it :) you should try adding patches of sand using the hairsrpay as the bonding agent. once the top coat goes over these it leaves a nice weathered effect, because as the sand is removed it leaves more natural looking scratches in the top coat.

another method involves painting a salt-heavy water solution on in patches before the topcoat. this dries into salt crystals and again is easily removed after the top coat goes on.

have another go – the results are worth it :)

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