The Warforge Miniature Modelling and Conversion

Painting? That’s madness!

Okay, so I decided to go ahead and start messing around with my Berserker's paint. You may or may not like what you're about to see, it's mostly me experimenting with things.

I've been trying to refine the hairspray technique over the past few days, and I figured I might as well give it a go on a full model instead of just test pieces. At worst, I can just chuck the model into a jar and scrub it clean and give it another go.

So, with that in mind, I went about setting up my undercoat of rust and metal. I started by hitting the model with a spray of Krylon Rust-color Primer, and let that sit for a little bit. Then I grabbed my airbrush and Privateer Press's P3 paint color Thornwood Green and hit the model with it in localized areas. Thornwood Green is a very desaturated, dark color that I thought looked like a pretty good contrast to the rust color. I sprayed it focusing mostly around the areas that I knew would be a dark iron or metal - the boiler, the joints, pistons, and the weapons. The goal behind this was to get a bit of variance in the undercoat, so any paint that was uncovered wouldn't all be the same shade of rust orange.

 

At this step, I'm fairly happy with the way the thing looks.

Now, here's where the hairspray method comes in. Just to reiterate what I've posted in the past, the goal of the hairspray method is to create a sort of masking layer that keeps any paint applied over it from sticking completely to the model. It can then be removed with a brush and water.

I hit the model up with a coat of Testor's Glosscote to help protect this rusty undercoat from the steps to come. Then, once that dried, I gave the model a good spray from head to toe with hairspray, and let THAT dry.

Once that was done, it was time to apply the base armor color. I wanted my warjacks to be a white color, like a sort of ceramic, so I thinned down some skull white and ran it through the airbrush, coating the model head to toe. I didn't worry too much above the coverage on areas like the boiler or weapons, or the pistons, as I know those are not going to be white by the time the model's done.

 

So far so good.I let that dry for about ten minutes while I cleaned out my airbrush.

Now, here's the tricky part. Using a stiff brush and some water, you can stipple the coat that we just airbrushed on. The water on the brush will dissolve the hairspray beneath the paint, and cause the paint to lift and come away as you attack it with the brush. By doing this, I can remove sections of the white paint and reveal the darker coat I first applied.

In theory, it's a really nice and easy way to weather things. In practice, it's... well, it's easy to go overboard, as you'll see below.

 

A problem I encountered as I did this was that the white paint I was attacking with the brush would pool in the recesses of the model, meaning it got washed into the joints in the pistons and what have you. I'm not too particularly worried about that, as I am pretty sure that a bit more time with the brush and some water can get that cleaned up - I'm just taking a break from it for now, as I'm tired of working on it.

I think the model is also suffering from a bit of a lack of definition. I'm thinking after I work at cleaning the metal areas up (pistons, axes, etc) some more, I'll give the whole thing a thin black wash before continuing, to try and bring the edges back out. Any areas I overdid with the weathering can, of course, be touched up with a brush by hand and some white paint.

Try and withhold judgment on the weathering until I have a bit more time to clean it up. I know it looks a bit extreme, but I still think I can make it work. If not, it's not a huge loss - a quick bath in simple green'll clean it right up for another try or a different painting method.