The Warforge Miniature Modelling and Conversion


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Dec
2009
2211:08
pm

On the fence

I mucked about with this a bit more, and I'm still unsure how I feel about it.

The weird thing is, these pictures make it look a little better than I think it looks to the eye, which is the reverse of the way macro photography usually works. I think it's just a bit overwhelming to look at and try to piece together in person.

I feel like the concept's there, but the execution is lacking. I tried to clean up the pistons and weapons a tiny bit with some boltgun metal and mithril silver, followed by some thin black washes all over the model. I am not sure if I want to keep working on it in it's current state, or chuck it into the paint-strippin' pot for a rematch with different weathering methods. I think part of the problem is my chosen scheme - I really wanted to pull of something like this Spriggan, which I idolize, but I went too far with the hairspray-chipping and made a mess of things.

What do you guys think? Press on and keep trying to clean the thing up, or toss it to the proverbial lions and strip it for another go?

Filed under: Berserker, Khador
Dec
2009
221:48
pm

Painting? That’s madness!

Okay, so I decided to go ahead and start messing around with my Berserker's paint. You may or may not like what you're about to see, it's mostly me experimenting with things.

I've been trying to refine the hairspray technique over the past few days, and I figured I might as well give it a go on a full model instead of just test pieces. At worst, I can just chuck the model into a jar and scrub it clean and give it another go.

So, with that in mind, I went about setting up my undercoat of rust and metal. I started by hitting the model with a spray of Krylon Rust-color Primer, and let that sit for a little bit. Then I grabbed my airbrush and Privateer Press's P3 paint color Thornwood Green and hit the model with it in localized areas. Thornwood Green is a very desaturated, dark color that I thought looked like a pretty good contrast to the rust color. I sprayed it focusing mostly around the areas that I knew would be a dark iron or metal - the boiler, the joints, pistons, and the weapons. The goal behind this was to get a bit of variance in the undercoat, so any paint that was uncovered wouldn't all be the same shade of rust orange.

At this step, I'm fairly happy with the way the thing looks.

Now, here's where the hairspray method comes in. Just to reiterate what I've posted in the past, the goal of the hairspray method is to create a sort of masking layer that keeps any paint applied over it from sticking completely to the model. It can then be removed with a brush and water.

I hit the model up with a coat of Testor's Glosscote to help protect this rusty undercoat from the steps to come. Then, once that dried, I gave the model a good spray from head to toe with hairspray, and let THAT dry.

Once that was done, it was time to apply the base armor color. I wanted my warjacks to be a white color, like a sort of ceramic, so I thinned down some skull white and ran it through the airbrush, coating the model head to toe. I didn't worry too much above the coverage on areas like the boiler or weapons, or the pistons, as I know those are not going to be white by the time the model's done.

So far so good.I let that dry for about ten minutes while I cleaned out my airbrush.

Now, here's the tricky part. Using a stiff brush and some water, you can stipple the coat that we just airbrushed on. The water on the brush will dissolve the hairspray beneath the paint, and cause the paint to lift and come away as you attack it with the brush. By doing this, I can remove sections of the white paint and reveal the darker coat I first applied.

In theory, it's a really nice and easy way to weather things. In practice, it's... well, it's easy to go overboard, as you'll see below.

A problem I encountered as I did this was that the white paint I was attacking with the brush would pool in the recesses of the model, meaning it got washed into the joints in the pistons and what have you. I'm not too particularly worried about that, as I am pretty sure that a bit more time with the brush and some water can get that cleaned up - I'm just taking a break from it for now, as I'm tired of working on it.

I think the model is also suffering from a bit of a lack of definition. I'm thinking after I work at cleaning the metal areas up (pistons, axes, etc) some more, I'll give the whole thing a thin black wash before continuing, to try and bring the edges back out. Any areas I overdid with the weathering can, of course, be touched up with a brush by hand and some white paint.

Try and withhold judgment on the weathering until I have a bit more time to clean it up. I know it looks a bit extreme, but I still think I can make it work. If not, it's not a huge loss - a quick bath in simple green'll clean it right up for another try or a different painting method.

Filed under: Berserker, Khador
Dec
2009
213:30
pm

Armor(mis)cast

So, I'm dissapointed.

I recently purchased one of Armorcast's "Fuel Air Missiles" in the hopes that I could use it as the basis for an Ork Pulsa Rokkit for Apocalypse. It seemed pretty well suited for it from the picture - it's got a mean face that is, according to their web site, "scribed on the missile body for your painting pleasure", and it's just generally a big, chunky, ramshackle looking piece of hardware that is perfectly suited to be an Orky weapon.

Unfortunately, the reality of the product is vastly, vastly different than their advertisement. Here's some pictures of the model taken pretty much immediately out of the package, without any tinkering.

armormiscast001

At first blush, it looks okay. The launching stand seems decent enough, and the detail on those parts is at least clean, although there's some pretty obvious flashing that needs to be removed. However, close examination very quickly reveals that the rocket itself is in absolutely miserable shape.

armormiscast006

I strongly recommend clicking on the images to view them at full size, so you can get an idea of my issues with the product.

The 'scribed on' detail is nonexistent, outside of one poorly cast eye-lump on one side of the rocket. The wiring and mechanical bits on the back are extremely dissapointing, as it's one of the bits Armorcast did not really display in their preview pictures at all - for reasons which are now becoming apparent.

I like to consider myself a reasonably competent modeller. I can patch holes, I can fix mold lines, I can clean resin up. But the state this rocket is in is simply unreasonable - what wires aren't miscast are covered in flashing 2-3 millimeters thick and pitted with air bubble holes. I bought this product to use as the base for a conversion - basically, to save myself the effort of making the underlying structure - but looking at it now, it'd take more time and effort for me to clean, fix, and repair what they sold me, rather than making my own from scratch. The quality of the cast is what I would consider barely passable for use as terrain, and that's only if you're burying it under ballast and giving it a quick drybrush; there's certainly no "painting pleasure" to be had here.

I had, in past, bought some Armorcast terrain features that shared a number of the flaws I see present on this piece. In those instances, I was willing to give Armorcast the benefit of the doubt, simply because it was a terrain feature (specifically, a barricade) and I figured I probably just got a fluke. However, I'm sure now that this isn't the case - I'm positive that the general quality control at Armorcast is asleep at the wheel.

I can't, in good conscience, recommend anyone else buy these things because I know for a fact that the casts they're going to be putting out aren't going to get any better. How? Well, simply put, there's pieces of the mold stuck in the tight crevasses of the model I got, meaning they're tearing the mold apart as they're using it. This will manifest on models that are cast later as weird, misshapen resin blobs on the models they make. This isn't even a chance thing - there's a whole thread on the Armorcast forums discussing how to remove bits of their molds that are stuck to the model!

Shame on you, Armorcast. The guys at D6 Hobbies put out superior casts with a garage set-up, and you run a whole business around the production of these shoddy copies.

Filed under: General
Dec
2009
2011:44
pm

Warjack on the run

So I tinkered a bit more with the Berserker and I'm reasonably happy with it's pose now.

Got a good bit of forward movement behind him. Now I'm hoping to do a bit of extra cleanup and detailing - things like adding Khadoran iconography on bare plates to try and liven things up a bit. Fortunately, the Khador symbol is very simple to cut out of styrene, so I don't imagine I'll lose too much sleep over it.

As far as painting goes, I've decided I don't want to to the common red Khador theme. I'm going for a cream/white color as my primary, instead - sort've a Khadoran Navy theme, if you will. This is why I've been testing the weathering effects in white on a dreadnought torso the past few days to try and get a handle on things. Hopefully I'll be able to do some decent weathering without going overboard!

Filed under: Berserker, Khador
Dec
2009
1912:37
am

Berserker!

I figured I'd toy around with my first Warjack this evening, so I grabbed one at random from my big pile o' Khador and started tinkering with it a bit.

First order of business was the pose. Something called a 'berserker' shouldn't just be meandering forward like the stock model seems to want to do. I did the best I could to set this thing in motion by converting it's legs into a foward running position. The arms then needed reposing as well, so I hacked away at the upper arm sections to removed them, and replaced them with a simple ball joint system so I could get a rough pose in place.

khadzerk004

I reposed the leading leg's foot a bit so it was angled down and looked a bit more like the thing was running forward. I'll be lengthening the weapon handles by a little bit to try and make the weapons look more impressive, though I'm giving thought to replacing the stock axes with some chainaxe type design ala 40k.

The upper arms'll be improved with the addition of more hydraulics/wiring/worky bitz to try and joint the arms into the shoulders properly, but only after I remove the mold lines on the model.

I've also given some thought to lighting the head of this thing, but I probably won't do it, and I'll paint any glow effects on instead. The only way I can really see getting an LED into the visor of the head would be to make a mold of it and cast it in clear resin with the LED embedded inside. Then, I'd paint everything but the visor, and the LED'd shine through there. Seems like a ton of work to do for not much payoff as far as I'm concerned, and I am trying to improve my painting, anyway.

Filed under: Berserker, Khador
Dec
2009
1812:22
pm

Experiment: Hairspray Technique, Round 2

Took another crack at the hairspray technique, and had a bit more success this time. I was going to try salt on one half of the torso, but I couldn't find anything with small enough granules to satisfy; maybe some of my ballast/basing sand will work in future, I didn't think of it at the time.

This time, I started with a reddish base color, courtesy of Krylon Rust-colored Primer. I was hoping that the primer would adhere a bit better to the model and resist coming off.

exp016

After that dried, I hit it with Testor's Glosscote, a glossy laquer varnish, in the hopes that it'd help keep the orange in place. I let that dry, then applied a coat of hair spray over top, and let that dry too. Then, it was time to break out the airbrush for a white coat of paint overtop. I think this part particularly went better than last time, since I got a much better, more even coverage and it was more opaque.

If nothing else, I'm learning to mix/thin paint for the airbrush better.

Then, after letting that dry for about ten minutes (just long enough to clean the airbrush out) I came back and grabbed a soft brush and started attacking the top coat.

exp020_0

Now, obviously the results aren't perfect - I didn't try to 'weather' it in very intelligent areas like around the edges as much as I should have, and I clearly removed sections that were too large. Also, it looks like the softer brush didn't actually remove all of the white, as you can see some of it is still obscuring the rust color underneath. I imagine if I got a stiffer bristled brush I'd be able to make sharper looking chipping effects.

Applying a coat of Testor's Dullcote overtop made the paint fix down a bit better and I imagine you could start applying paint overtop as required.

This is a fair improvement over the last attempt.  Torso's heading back into the pot for another cleaning while I think about these results. I'm contemplating stripping the paint off my Trukk and trying to do this to the whole body of the thing.

UPDATE: One last thing. Before the torso went back into the jar, I figured I'd try out some oil paint weathering. This is done pretty simply by getting a tube of oil paint, applying small dots of the paint around the surface of the model, and then getting a soft brush and some mineral spirits and gently rubbing the dots you've brushed on to thin them and spread them out. This took all of about a minute and a half, and looks beat to hell:

expoils001

I'm going to practice this a bit more once I get the hairspray method down. I imagine if you use a proper orange oil color, you can get some awesome rust effects going on.

Filed under: Experiments
Dec
2009
181:26
am

Experiment: Hairspray Technique

Here's something a little different.

I was recently introduced to some of the painting methods of Mig Jiminez, specifically the 'hairspray technique'. My understanding of the method, after reading that link, is that you basically lay down a base color that serves as the weathering, then apply hairspray over the model, and use an airbrush to lay down another color. Then, with a wet (and presumably firm-bristled) brush, you can stipple and remove the top coat, because it hasn't adhered very strongly to the hairspray layer. Once you're one weathering, I guess you varnish.

So, I thought I'd give this method a go, and see what happened. It looks like it'd be ideal for weathering Khador warjacks if I can get it working.

First, because I don't want to ruin a nice model, we turn to a set of jars that I have collectively termed 'THE WARP'. These jars separately contain acetone, simple green, or other stripping solutions, depending on the model that needs to be stripped. Below, you'll see me with the acetone jar, which is what I throw all my metals into.

exp001

From the depths of this jar, I fished out a metal Furioso Dreadnought's front plate. I spent a little while getting it cleaned off, and then I hit it with my GW Boltgun Metal spray to get a basic coat down to start with.

exp002

My idea here was to get a sort've rusty colored undercoat in place. Then, I'd try the hairspray, and apply a cream-colored paint overtop of that. I grabbed my Devlan Mud and a rusty wash and set about weathering it a bit...

Once that dried, I thought I might try out my airbrush a bit. It's been almost five years since I last used this thing, and I've never been very good at it; mixing the paint consistencies is always hit or miss for me. Using a vermin brown, I thinned it with water and sprayed a bit of the torso down to get a nice, rusted sort of color down on the torso.

Now that I have this in place, it's time for the hairspray. I used the cheapest spray I could find - cost about $2 from the local drug store. If the method works, I'd then be able to brush any paint colors I apply overtop off and reveal this rusty coat.

I left the model to dry for a bit, and once it had, I came back and hit it with a mixture of white and bleached bone with the airbrush.

exp012

It's not a complete cover, as you can see it's not a solid white, but I thought it'd be enough to test the method out, so after I let that dry, I grabbed a brush and started stippling away.

Now, here's where the results I was expecting did not match the results I obtained. I was under the impression the coat of paint I sprayed on after the hairspray would come off relatively easily, but that was definitely not the case; the white coat wasn't coming off at all. I grabbed a stiffer bristled brush that I use for drybrushing, and tried that a bit more forcefully. In one place on the left side of the torso, it worked, and the brown/orange undercoat came through. The rest of the torso, however, didn't go quite as well - instead of reaching the orange coat, I ended up removing paint all the way down to the base metal coat.

exp013 exp015

You can see where I ended up removing down past the orange here. I wasn't digging at the model with the brush or anything particularly hard - too gently, and nothing was happening to the white coat, so I did press a bit harder with the brush. It seemed very hard to get to the orange layer without going straight through it.

After this test, I chucked the torso back into the acetone vat for later experiments, since it didn't seem to be going too well.

Some thoughts, comments, and things I might have done wrong:

  • From what I can tell of Mig's method, he uses his airbrush to apply the hairspray. I figured since the stuff was already in an aerosol can, I would spare myself the trouble and spray the hairspray directly on. I honestly can't imagine that's the source of any problems.
  • The white I sprayed over the hairspray certainly did not come off as easily as I was expecting from looking at Mig's article - I thought a wet brush'd just take it off, but you had to kind've work at it, which might be part of why I ended up removing too much.
  • I'm curious if applying a coat of varnish over the orange layer before hitting it with the hairspray would keep me from going all the way down to bare metal while trying to stipple the top coat away.
  • Also, the GW Boltgun Metal spray isn't really a primer. I wonder if that might be why the coats under the hairspray came off too easy.

In any event, the torso'll be stripped bare by tomorrow, and I'll be able to give it another try if I can refine the method a bit. I'd be interested if any of you have comments that might help!

Filed under: Experiments
Dec
2009
156:59
pm

We are Legion

Okay! Finals are over, so now for a tiny bit of news.

I'm going to be converting my Salamanders over to Legion of the Damned.

There's a couple reasons for this. Chief among them is the fact that GW's just released some absolutely incredible models for Legion of the Damned, and I'm quite taken with them:

gwlotd

You can't argue that those aren't some pretty impressive models, yeah?

My plan is basically this: I'm going to make an entire LotD themed army. I realize they're an elites choice in the current codex. I don't care. Basically, all my 'standard' marines will be Legion troopers. I also realize that, as far as their background indicates, they're pretty limited in manpower and don't have much of an organized force. I don't care.

My end goal for this is to make a 'counts-as' Vulkan He'stan out of a Power Armor Chaplain with a Legion theme, and run the whole army as a sort of proxy Salamanders. Since the Legion is just as fire-themed as Salamanders, it does make a certain degree of thematic sense. The things I currently already have for Salamanders will be kept, since they're basically interchangeable - they already have flame motifs on them, so all I need to do is add skulls instead of scales and paint black. :) This has the added bonus of preventing me from having two green armies, and as far as I'm concerned I think the Legion scheme looks a lot sharper on a table. Plus, let's be honest - black is substantially easier to paint and touch up than lime green.

Chances are good that, like most projects, I'll get a couple of these done before something else shiny catches my eye, but you never know.

Right now, I'm in the process of ordering some of the stuff I'll need for this idea; skeleton warriors from fantasy, some chaplains, obviously advance ordering the new LotD, and a Forgeworld Chaplain Dreadnought will hopefully provide me with a base to convert a Legion one from.

In the mean time (while I wait for these supplies) I will probably be working on some of my Orks - I'm thinking a squad of proper Nobz would not be amiss!

Filed under: General
Dec
2009
1011:49
am

WTB Chaplain Dreadnought

Just taking a brief break from studying for my finals to throw this out there:

I'm currently looking to get my hands on a Forgeworld Chaplain Dreadnought. I'd order from Forgeworld if I wasn't entirely sure it'd take 2-3 months to get to me. I'd vastly prefer something that's new and unpainted.

I'm happy to buy it for cash, or trade for marine or ork bits! Anyone with one they'd like to unload, please contact me.

Filed under: General
Dec
2009
72:47
pm

Electro-spinners!

Hey guys. Not back from my hiatus yet, since I've got exams 'till the 15th, but I wanted to mention this for those that have asked.

The front prong bits I made during my Mega-SAG project are now available from d6hobbies.com - I wasn't really planning on having them cast up, but enough people asked that it seemed worthwhile. It comes as unpainted resin, with  3 separate prongs and a central turbine hub.

I'm looking forward to some hobby work over winter break!

Filed under: General
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