20092011:44
pm
Warjack on the run
So I tinkered a bit more with the Berserker and I'm reasonably happy with it's pose now.
Got a good bit of forward movement behind him. Now I'm hoping to do a bit of extra cleanup and detailing - things like adding Khadoran iconography on bare plates to try and liven things up a bit. Fortunately, the Khador symbol is very simple to cut out of styrene, so I don't imagine I'll lose too much sleep over it.
As far as painting goes, I've decided I don't want to to the common red Khador theme. I'm going for a cream/white color as my primary, instead - sort've a Khadoran Navy theme, if you will. This is why I've been testing the weathering effects in white on a dreadnought torso the past few days to try and get a handle on things. Hopefully I'll be able to do some decent weathering without going overboard!
20091912:37
am
Berserker!
I figured I'd toy around with my first Warjack this evening, so I grabbed one at random from my big pile o' Khador and started tinkering with it a bit.
First order of business was the pose. Something called a 'berserker' shouldn't just be meandering forward like the stock model seems to want to do. I did the best I could to set this thing in motion by converting it's legs into a foward running position. The arms then needed reposing as well, so I hacked away at the upper arm sections to removed them, and replaced them with a simple ball joint system so I could get a rough pose in place.
I reposed the leading leg's foot a bit so it was angled down and looked a bit more like the thing was running forward. I'll be lengthening the weapon handles by a little bit to try and make the weapons look more impressive, though I'm giving thought to replacing the stock axes with some chainaxe type design ala 40k.
The upper arms'll be improved with the addition of more hydraulics/wiring/worky bitz to try and joint the arms into the shoulders properly, but only after I remove the mold lines on the model.
I've also given some thought to lighting the head of this thing, but I probably won't do it, and I'll paint any glow effects on instead. The only way I can really see getting an LED into the visor of the head would be to make a mold of it and cast it in clear resin with the LED embedded inside. Then, I'd paint everything but the visor, and the LED'd shine through there. Seems like a ton of work to do for not much payoff as far as I'm concerned, and I am trying to improve my painting, anyway.
20091812:22
pm
Experiment: Hairspray Technique, Round 2
Took another crack at the hairspray technique, and had a bit more success this time. I was going to try salt on one half of the torso, but I couldn't find anything with small enough granules to satisfy; maybe some of my ballast/basing sand will work in future, I didn't think of it at the time.
This time, I started with a reddish base color, courtesy of Krylon Rust-colored Primer. I was hoping that the primer would adhere a bit better to the model and resist coming off.
After that dried, I hit it with Testor's Glosscote, a glossy laquer varnish, in the hopes that it'd help keep the orange in place. I let that dry, then applied a coat of hair spray over top, and let that dry too. Then, it was time to break out the airbrush for a white coat of paint overtop. I think this part particularly went better than last time, since I got a much better, more even coverage and it was more opaque.
If nothing else, I'm learning to mix/thin paint for the airbrush better.
Then, after letting that dry for about ten minutes (just long enough to clean the airbrush out) I came back and grabbed a soft brush and started attacking the top coat.
Now, obviously the results aren't perfect - I didn't try to 'weather' it in very intelligent areas like around the edges as much as I should have, and I clearly removed sections that were too large. Also, it looks like the softer brush didn't actually remove all of the white, as you can see some of it is still obscuring the rust color underneath. I imagine if I got a stiffer bristled brush I'd be able to make sharper looking chipping effects.
Applying a coat of Testor's Dullcote overtop made the paint fix down a bit better and I imagine you could start applying paint overtop as required.
This is a fair improvement over the last attempt. Torso's heading back into the pot for another cleaning while I think about these results. I'm contemplating stripping the paint off my Trukk and trying to do this to the whole body of the thing.
UPDATE: One last thing. Before the torso went back into the jar, I figured I'd try out some oil paint weathering. This is done pretty simply by getting a tube of oil paint, applying small dots of the paint around the surface of the model, and then getting a soft brush and some mineral spirits and gently rubbing the dots you've brushed on to thin them and spread them out. This took all of about a minute and a half, and looks beat to hell:
I'm going to practice this a bit more once I get the hairspray method down. I imagine if you use a proper orange oil color, you can get some awesome rust effects going on.
2009181:26
am
Experiment: Hairspray Technique
Here's something a little different.
I was recently introduced to some of the painting methods of Mig Jiminez, specifically the 'hairspray technique'. My understanding of the method, after reading that link, is that you basically lay down a base color that serves as the weathering, then apply hairspray over the model, and use an airbrush to lay down another color. Then, with a wet (and presumably firm-bristled) brush, you can stipple and remove the top coat, because it hasn't adhered very strongly to the hairspray layer. Once you're one weathering, I guess you varnish.
So, I thought I'd give this method a go, and see what happened. It looks like it'd be ideal for weathering Khador warjacks if I can get it working.
First, because I don't want to ruin a nice model, we turn to a set of jars that I have collectively termed 'THE WARP'. These jars separately contain acetone, simple green, or other stripping solutions, depending on the model that needs to be stripped. Below, you'll see me with the acetone jar, which is what I throw all my metals into.
From the depths of this jar, I fished out a metal Furioso Dreadnought's front plate. I spent a little while getting it cleaned off, and then I hit it with my GW Boltgun Metal spray to get a basic coat down to start with.
My idea here was to get a sort've rusty colored undercoat in place. Then, I'd try the hairspray, and apply a cream-colored paint overtop of that. I grabbed my Devlan Mud and a rusty wash and set about weathering it a bit...
Once that dried, I thought I might try out my airbrush a bit. It's been almost five years since I last used this thing, and I've never been very good at it; mixing the paint consistencies is always hit or miss for me. Using a vermin brown, I thinned it with water and sprayed a bit of the torso down to get a nice, rusted sort of color down on the torso.
Now that I have this in place, it's time for the hairspray. I used the cheapest spray I could find - cost about $2 from the local drug store. If the method works, I'd then be able to brush any paint colors I apply overtop off and reveal this rusty coat.
I left the model to dry for a bit, and once it had, I came back and hit it with a mixture of white and bleached bone with the airbrush.
It's not a complete cover, as you can see it's not a solid white, but I thought it'd be enough to test the method out, so after I let that dry, I grabbed a brush and started stippling away.
Now, here's where the results I was expecting did not match the results I obtained. I was under the impression the coat of paint I sprayed on after the hairspray would come off relatively easily, but that was definitely not the case; the white coat wasn't coming off at all. I grabbed a stiffer bristled brush that I use for drybrushing, and tried that a bit more forcefully. In one place on the left side of the torso, it worked, and the brown/orange undercoat came through. The rest of the torso, however, didn't go quite as well - instead of reaching the orange coat, I ended up removing paint all the way down to the base metal coat.
You can see where I ended up removing down past the orange here. I wasn't digging at the model with the brush or anything particularly hard - too gently, and nothing was happening to the white coat, so I did press a bit harder with the brush. It seemed very hard to get to the orange layer without going straight through it.
After this test, I chucked the torso back into the acetone vat for later experiments, since it didn't seem to be going too well.
Some thoughts, comments, and things I might have done wrong:
- From what I can tell of Mig's method, he uses his airbrush to apply the hairspray. I figured since the stuff was already in an aerosol can, I would spare myself the trouble and spray the hairspray directly on. I honestly can't imagine that's the source of any problems.
- The white I sprayed over the hairspray certainly did not come off as easily as I was expecting from looking at Mig's article - I thought a wet brush'd just take it off, but you had to kind've work at it, which might be part of why I ended up removing too much.
- I'm curious if applying a coat of varnish over the orange layer before hitting it with the hairspray would keep me from going all the way down to bare metal while trying to stipple the top coat away.
- Also, the GW Boltgun Metal spray isn't really a primer. I wonder if that might be why the coats under the hairspray came off too easy.
In any event, the torso'll be stripped bare by tomorrow, and I'll be able to give it another try if I can refine the method a bit. I'd be interested if any of you have comments that might help!
2009156:59
pm
We are Legion
Okay! Finals are over, so now for a tiny bit of news.
I'm going to be converting my Salamanders over to Legion of the Damned.
There's a couple reasons for this. Chief among them is the fact that GW's just released some absolutely incredible models for Legion of the Damned, and I'm quite taken with them:
You can't argue that those aren't some pretty impressive models, yeah?
My plan is basically this: I'm going to make an entire LotD themed army. I realize they're an elites choice in the current codex. I don't care. Basically, all my 'standard' marines will be Legion troopers. I also realize that, as far as their background indicates, they're pretty limited in manpower and don't have much of an organized force. I don't care.
My end goal for this is to make a 'counts-as' Vulkan He'stan out of a Power Armor Chaplain with a Legion theme, and run the whole army as a sort of proxy Salamanders. Since the Legion is just as fire-themed as Salamanders, it does make a certain degree of thematic sense. The things I currently already have for Salamanders will be kept, since they're basically interchangeable - they already have flame motifs on them, so all I need to do is add skulls instead of scales and paint black.
This has the added bonus of preventing me from having two green armies, and as far as I'm concerned I think the Legion scheme looks a lot sharper on a table. Plus, let's be honest - black is substantially easier to paint and touch up than lime green.
Chances are good that, like most projects, I'll get a couple of these done before something else shiny catches my eye, but you never know.
Right now, I'm in the process of ordering some of the stuff I'll need for this idea; skeleton warriors from fantasy, some chaplains, obviously advance ordering the new LotD, and a Forgeworld Chaplain Dreadnought will hopefully provide me with a base to convert a Legion one from.
In the mean time (while I wait for these supplies) I will probably be working on some of my Orks - I'm thinking a squad of proper Nobz would not be amiss!
20091011:49
am
WTB Chaplain Dreadnought
Just taking a brief break from studying for my finals to throw this out there:
I'm currently looking to get my hands on a Forgeworld Chaplain Dreadnought. I'd order from Forgeworld if I wasn't entirely sure it'd take 2-3 months to get to me. I'd vastly prefer something that's new and unpainted.
I'm happy to buy it for cash, or trade for marine or ork bits! Anyone with one they'd like to unload, please contact me.
200972:47
pm
Electro-spinners!
Hey guys. Not back from my hiatus yet, since I've got exams 'till the 15th, but I wanted to mention this for those that have asked.
The front prong bits I made during my Mega-SAG project are now available from d6hobbies.com - I wasn't really planning on having them cast up, but enough people asked that it seemed worthwhile. It comes as unpainted resin, with 3 separate prongs and a central turbine hub.
I'm looking forward to some hobby work over winter break!
2009192:55
pm
Intermission
A quick note.
If it hasn't become completely apparent due to the lack of updates, I'm inundated in work right now as finals come up. This semester, in particular, has been a huge demand on my time due to the subjects I'm taking. I will likely not be updating until after finals in December.
Sorry!
20092211:37
am
Rusty basecoat
My tracked wartrukk was one of those projects that I intended on painting up and posting updates of. I've had a quick go at getting some base colors on it, as well as testing a rust wash that I mixed up. It's obviously got a long way to go, but I figure you can sort've see where I'm going with it as far as colors.
The photographs are sort've shoddy simply due to the fact that my normal camera is unavailable, so I had to make do. Better shots will be forthcoming after I get a bit more of the paint done and clean up some of the details.
2009209:57
am
I’m not dead yet!
Rumors of my death have been greatly exaggerated.
As I'm sure many of you may have noticed, this site has been without updates for a significant time. I can do nothing but apologize for the downtime. Law school being what it is, I find myself with very little free time this semester, and ontop of that my fiance and I have been working out the essential nuts and bolts of our wedding plans.
With that said, not everything has been crickets and tumbleweeds. I've been doing a very small bit of painting as I've had the time, and I haven't gotten around to photographing and posting anything yet. When I'm done with my classes today, I'll have a go at getting some of my projects up-to-date.
On a related note, I should mention that I did pick between Mercenaries and Khador for my dabbling in Warmachine. The glorious motherland shall have my axe, for I am pitching in with the mighty Khadoran nation. The decision was primarily motivated by Privateer Press's final MK II rules, as I felt that pirate mercs really hadn't gained a tremendous amount; the themed warjacks were still really sub-par and required a lot of finesse to play to any sort of effectiveness - finesse which I, as a very novice Warmachine gamer, sorely lacked. Khador is delightfully straightforward with it's 'advance-and-smash' playstyle, and as an ork player I can sympathize with such sentiments.
I recently had the chance to order a couple Khadoran jacks from my buddy Andrew over at D6 Hobbies, and I'm waiting with bated breath for the models to make their way to me from Texas. I'm a bit sticker shocked at the retail prices of some of the Khadoran jacks, but I guess I should be used to it now after playing 40k for so long.
One last tidbit to mention for now: I'm working on a new product for sale, which will hopefully be a delightfully modular custom tread assembly, for those of you looking to add beefy, spiked tank treads to your vehicles. It's coming along nicely so far, and I expect to be done with it by November.
More updates later today.
June 9th, 2010